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Kathak is one the eight classical dance forms in India. The name itself is derived from the Sanskrit word – Katha (Story). The narrator of a story is called Katthaka in Sanskrit. Hence this dance form which narrates a story through the expressions and body movements came to be called Kathak.
The dance form of Kathak has three main schools which have their own unique style and instruments. The schools known as Gharanas are Lucknow Gharana, Banaras Gharana and Jaipur Gharana.

The first two Gharanas are the ones from Uttar Pradesh. The Lucknow Gharana has a lot of Mughal influence reflected in it. The Banaras Gharana showcases a lot of use of the dance floor, not only for movement of the feet but also a flop down movement which shows the danseuse hugging the floor.


Origin and History
As per the literary records at Kameshwar library at Mithila, Kathak had it’s origin in the 3rd or 4th century BC. Even mythological stories like the Mahabharata talk about Kathak.

It was during the Mughal era; in 16th century A.D. that Kathak received Royal patronage and was performed in the courts to entertain the Royals. During this period, Kathak received elements of fusion from other dance forms like the Persian dance form wherein the art of straight leg movements was introduced as also the spinning movement.

In the following years, Kathak received the royal patronage of the Nawab of Awadh – Wajid Ali Shah who was the main moving force behind the creation of the Lucknow Gharana in the 19th century. The Lucknow Gharana reached it’s pinnacle of perfection under the guidance of Thakur Prasad Maharaj who was the chief court dancer in the Nawab’s court. His legacy was carried forward by his sons- Bindadin Maharaj and Kalkadin Maharaj.

Around the same time the Banaras Gharana also evolved. This Gharana was developed by a gentleman by the name of Janakiprasad. During British rule in India, Kathak came to be referred to as an uncouth entertainment form stereo cast as something associated with the trade of immoral women. Here on, Kathak saw a sharp decline in its popularity.

Style
Notably, there are two styles of performing Kathak. The first one is Nritta which has a structure of pure dance in which the performances moves from slow to a faster pace and then reaching a crescendo at the climax. It often has two kinds of compositions. The shorter ones are called tukra and the longer pieces are known as toda.

The second style is called Nritya which focuses on expressions as the main mode. This style uses pieces of expressions to convey a story. This performance style is also known Bhaav Bataanaa. The modern day Kathak uses more of Nritya style.
Kathak Dancer

The Nritya style is more associated with the Lucknow Gharana while Nritta is associated more so with the Banaras Gharana.

In early years, the performers wore sarees due to the Hindu influence. With the advent of the Mughal influence, the attire changed to anarkali suits with pyjamas and lehenga with choli. A dupatta or an Odhni (veil) is tied across from the right shoulder to the left side towards the waist. A kamarbandh (Waist belt) made of either zari with precious stones or cloth with meenakari work is used. Ghungroos (anklets) are for the feet. The unique aspect of Ghungroos in Kathak is that unlike other classical dance forms, the bells are not fixed on to a patch of leather. Instead, they are woven through a thick string. The Ghungroos also possess 100 bells.

An option being explored nowadays is that of a small peaked cap which is worn during performances. Traditionally, fabric made from silk was used for the clothing for the body. However with passage of the time, cotton is increasingly being used.

Jewellery for the Kathak danseuse includes a bindi (teardrop or round shaped gold attached at the forehead), and jhumka (earrings).
Innovations

The Anarkali suit or the churidaar & kameez for the Kathak performer is designed such that it is fitted tight around the waist and the skirt portion below the waist has a flared style so that when the dancer executes a movement of going round and round while standing at the same spot, it gives a wonderful spinning effect.

Traditionally, bangles were not used. The sleeve of the jacket used to have an embroidered stitching which would give a virtual effect of bangles. However nowadays, the real bangles are being used.
Influences over the Years

The biggest influences for the Lucknow Gharana are the descendents of Thakur Prasad Maharaj. In today’s times, Pandit Birju Maharaj has carried forth that legacy. The Banaras Gharana has it’s own famous face in the form of Sitara Devi, daughter of Pandit Sukhdev Maharaj.

Interesting Facts and Comparisons

•     Similarities have been pointed out between Kathak and the Spanish dance of Flamenco especially in the way feet movements are done.

•     Kathak has been showcased in many Hindi movies including the iconic Pakeeza, Mughal-e-Azam, Shatranj Ke Khiladi and more.

•     In contemporary times, Kathak Yoga as part of the kathak movement techniques have been introduced by Pandit Chitresh Das.

Kalira (also spelled as Kaleera or Kalire) is a silver or gold embellished, umbrella shaped ornament that is attached to the bride’s Chooda or bangle, which is a set of traditional white and red colored bangles worn on each arm. A Punjabi bride’s wedding attire is incomplete without the resplendent Kalira, or Kalirey. It is an important accessory for a Punjabi bride, and there is a separate ceremony that is allocated to the ornamentation of this particular accessory, which showcases the bride’s marital mirth and bliss felt by people around her.
Origin
According to certain archaeological evidence, Kalira first came into existence around the 20th century in Punjab. There is an interesting legend that surrounds this exquisitely designed accessory, which indicates that as per Punjabi tradition, a bride was given half-cut, dried coconuts that were tied to her bangles as a snack to keep her from getting hungry since she had to travel long distances before she reached the bridegroom’s house for the wedding ceremony.

There is no bar when it comes to different communities. The Kalira is worn by all Punjabi women on their wedding day, regardless of their social standing. The traditional kalira was made out of shells, flowers and strings of beads, which were tied around the chooda on each arm by the bride’s sisters, cousins, or sister in law. The Kalira is a symbol of good luck and prosperity bestowed on the bride by her family and friends before she enters marital bliss.


Style & Variety
The Kalira is not just an accessory, but is an important part of a ceremony that takes place in every Punjabi wedding. The kalira ritual takes place on the morning of the wedding day, and right after the haldi ceremony. Long umbrella shaped ornaments are tied to the bride’s wrists by married women in the family, which includes her mother, sisters, sister in laws, friends and even aunts.

Certain Kalira’s are made out of gold or silver plated leaves, and it is believed that the number of leaves present on a single kalira represent the number of friends the bride has. Once the Kalirey are tied to the bride’s wrists, a whole row of bridesmaids is created that includes the single sisters or friends of the bride. The bride- to -be is then supposed to shake the kalira’s on every girl’s head.

If the kalira falls on someone’s head, then that girl is supposedly the next one to get married, or so it is believed as per Punjabi tradition. This could be considered equivalent to the Christian tradition where the bride throws the bouquet after her marriage, and whoever catches it in the crowd is the next girl to be married, or is considered lucky enough to get married!

Punjabi’s and Punjabi weddings, in particular, are known for their vibrant costumes, jewelry, fashion senses, and mainly fun and frolic that they carry across their celebrations or wedding ceremonies. The Kalirey ceremony is one of the most fun going ceremonies organized by the women of the household, holding and having them participated in the rituals and customs full of entertainment and splendor.
Once the bride gets married, Groom & Bride go to the Gurudwara, or the temple to seek the priest’s blessings. During this time, the bride leaves one of the two kaliras in the gurdwara as a token of respect for the priest, and to obtain his blessings for a happy married life. The other Kalira is kept as a token of her marriage for the rest of her nuptial journey.

Trends
These days Kalirey come in all kinds of exclusive designs and trimmings. Punjabi brides love to match the style and colors of the Kalirey according to their wedding dresses and jewelry. Different colored stones, flowers, or beads are added to the kalira which go in sync with the bride’s lehenga or the shades present in her overall wedding attire. Some go for the simple looking kaliras, which are silver or gold leaves attached to strings made out of beads, while some like to go for the more ornate looking kaliras, which are large and umbrella shaped, and have lots of diamonds, and pearls embedded in the design.

Global Appeal
All the grandeur present in Punjabi weddings make them famous not only in India, but in other countries. Several customs and traditions inherent in Punjabi weddings have been adopted by other cultures as well. Kaliras are beautiful ornaments that have captured the hearts of many on a global scale, and continue to do so even today.

Rudraksh, since ancient times, has been referred to as a form of Lord Shiva that symbolizes Godliness, ultimate truth and eternity of life. Of the various beads of Rudraksh found in the recent times, the ekmukhi (single) Rudraksha is considered to be primary form of the Lord. The followers of Shiva have always owned at least one piece of Rudraksh jewelry. It could be in the form of a Mala (necklace) or, just a bead. But, with changing times, it has found its place in the modern pieces of jewelry as well as jewelry boxes.
Origin
It comes from a mish-mash of 2 words: Rudra which means Lord Shankar and, Aksha which means tears. The plant of Rudraksh originated from the tears of Lord Shankar that he shed when he saw the pain and suffering of his people. It counters and nullifies the negative effects caused by the various planets on any person. It can be worn by anyone and everyone and, it does not cause any negative effects like the navratnas. These are available in mukhis and shastras for easing out the negatives. The various faces and, shastras work in harmony and help alleviate the pain observed by humans.

Trendsetter
Although it has a religious and spiritual bit attached to it, it has been seen donned by every other fashion enthusiast. Followers of Lord Shiva proudly wear them in form of neck piece or wrist piece. Also, there are caskets that come with a single bead of Rudraksh or several beads of Rudraksh encasing the front opening, which in turn makes them look beautiful. It has heavily transmitted itself in modern jewelry and gifting boxes. It gives an otherwise simple casket a defining look. The boxes could be as small as ring boxes, big enough to fit a mala, a ring and, other defining things. The boxes, brown in color  carry an elegant and sophisticated look.

Occasion Dressing
One can gift a Rudraksh box anytime or for any occasion. It can be a gift for the wedding anniversary or weddings, functions, and auspicious occasions such as house warming parties. It could also be given as a gift when a child is born in the family , a promotion is given, or in general during some visit to a person’s house. Rudraksh boxes can also be given as a parting gift for all those who attend a wedding.


Global Influence
With beliefs attached to the bead, a lot of Rudraksha travel across the Indian borders. More of it, have reached the fashion ramps of big shot fashion shows, and has created a cult culture globally!
Suitability
It can be worn to suit your fashion tastes as it is harmless and has no planetary influence on us.

Chronicles of Future Untold
It was once not accepted by the masses. It was confined to the followers of Lord Shiva. With it transforming into boxes and jewelry, a lot of people have started wearing it as a regular piece of accessory.

Interesting Facts & Comparisons

•     There are 14 types of Rudraksh with different powers of healing. Each one is strong in its own way.

•     Mukhi is basically the deep lines that one would find on the surface of the Rudraksha from the top to bottom.

•     Rudraksh is suitable for spiritual maintenance of mind and body.

Bamboo craft is indigenous to India, and is also amongst the oldest of crafts in the world. It is practiced in various states of India such as Kerala, Goa and the North Eastern states. They are very much into bamboo craft, and particularly, bags and bamboo baskets, which are quite popular throughout India and across the world.

Origin
In Goa, bamboo craft is practiced by the Mahars, a Goan community, who have passed on this skill for generations. In Arunachal Pradesh, bamboo is an integral part of their daily sustenance. The famous Adi Gallong basket is used to store and transport rice whereas the Angami Basket is another important bamboo craft, presented to the daughter in her marriage trousseau. Assam also has its own distinctive style of making bags and baskets out of bamboo. Besides this, they are also renowned for their innovative bamboo furniture industry as much as it is known for its basketry. Likewise, Sikkim too has a rich heritage of bamboo craft. The fine craftsmanship of these artisans shows from how they give bamboo an exquisite look by using simple tools but intricate manual methods. In fact, a lot of tribes make colorful baskets out of bamboo and adorn then with natural dues and embellishments like birds feathers. Each state has its own distinctive bamboo weaving style which gives an entirely different appearance to their bags and baskets.

Vintage Bamboo Clutch
Bamboo baskets are made by splitting bamboo longitudinally and then heating it on slow fire. These coils are then used in basketry and are built up in a spiral pattern to create the desired height. These baskets are then ornamented with shells and lace. The baskets are finally cleaned with the help of sandpaper and given a glossy look by polishing it with varnish.

Although these baskets and bags have a very specific use in the states from where they are originated, they are now considered to be a very popular modern-day bag accessory. Owing to its eco – friendly nature, bamboo bags and baskets are now increasingly becoming a favorite of people of all ages for a variety of purposes. Similarly, the bamboo bag/basket making craftsmen are too coming up with a variety of newer, trendier options for the youth and hence the demand for these bags, biodegradable in nature, is on the rise.

Present Day Scenario
Over the course of the past few years, the humble bamboo has evolved and come a long way as it a very commonly used favorite amongst both Indian and international designers. The versatile bamboo has now found a myriad forms and is now used in making clothes, jewelry, bags, furniture toys, beer and musical instruments. In fact, bamboo luxury brands have been in vogue for years- be it in the form of jewellery, or accessories produced by the premier brands. For instance, the bamboo crocodile satchel by Gucci is one of its kind and is priced at a whopping Rs. 12,65,000.
Bamboo Bags

Global Appeal
The international movement for adopting ‘green practices’ and ‘green products’ has created a surge in bamboo accessories, particularly in handbags and baskets. Not only do they provide great durability, but are also aesthetically pleasing because of their availability in various forms, sizes, embellishments and colors.

Mankind has always been mesmerized by the beauty and distinctiveness of Pearls. Whether it’s white, off white or black, this unique jewel has always been cherished due to its natural shine and beauty.  The Black pearl, however, has been the most sought-after pearl because of its unique aura.

The clear blue seas of Tahiti Islands play host to several different varieties of the black pearl. The reason they are black in color is because they are formed in an oyster which has black edges. Black Pearls also happen to be bigger in size compared to ordinary, white pearls because the oysters hosting them are usually bigger in size. These pearls have been extensively refined and promoted by the Tahiti government. A strict quality check precedes the export of black pearls, and hence it is safe to buy good quality pearls from any part of the world. Pearl farmers take care of the pearl-bearing oysters for almost two years and then take them out which are ready to be used into the making of a jewelry piece or become part of ornamentation, or fashion jewelry box.
Background

The history of Black pearl jewelry is rich and enchanting. Emperors in ancient Asian culture traditionally wore Black pearl jewelry, symbolizing their ultimate royalty. It was considered that divine powers were bestowed upon the rulers who wore black pearls.

The native tribes of French Polynesia extensively used pearl jewelry to adorn themselves and believed that black pearls harnessed exquisite colors of the rainbow after a storm. Black pearl jewelry was a symbol of renewal and hope for humanity.

Kundan embroidery on fabrics is highly sought after as the richness it bestows to the fabric is virtually unmatched by anything else. Kundan embroidery is an amalgamation of Zardozi and Kundan work. The basic process used is where after the completing the Zardozi embroidery using gold and silver threads, gemstones and pearls are studded on to it.

Origin and History
Kundan on fabrics goes back to the Mughal era where it flourished under royal patronage in Rajasthan and Gujarat. Artisans from all over the country converged to Rajasthan to learn and perfect this art.

However, just like Zardozi, this art also floundered due to the increasingly high costs of gold and gemstones.It is believed that in the late 19th century, Kundan jewelry and Kundan work on fabric came back into the limelight when artisans started using semi-precious stones, pearls and silver along with the modified materials of Zardozi.

Present Day Scenario
More than Kundan embroidered clothing, Kundan jewelry by itself is a distinguished work of art considered a once in a lifetime gift. More often than not, a bride is adorned with Kundan jewelry and clothes with Kundan embroidery on her wedding.

While Jaipur and Bikaner continue to be the centres of traditional Kundan jewellery, today the main centres for creating Kundan embroidery are Delhi, Agra, Lucknow, Bhopal, Ajmer, Mumbai, Kashmir and Chennai.

Faces Behind The Work
For the Kundan jewelry work, there are a set of specialized craftsmen who carry out specific tasks. The Chiterias are the people who provide the basic design. The Ghaarias carry out the engraving process and they also make the holes. In case of Meena Kundan, the enameller does the Meenakari work and finally the goldsmith does the work with gold setting. Finally the Jadiyas (stone setters) set the stones into the gold.

Varieties
Nowadays, there are varieties of Kundan jewelry which use silver as the main base so as to make it more affordable for people across the globe. The same applies for Kundan embroidered clothes too. Beautiful outfits of Kundan work like designer sarees, lehengas and other Indian dresses are also made by artisans in Rajasthan.
Occasion Dressing
Sarees with Kundan work embroidery often form part of the bridal finery at weddings. Be it wedding lehengas or bridal sarees, Kundan forms an essential part of the embellishments. They are also worn on many formal occasions.

Maintenance
For fabrics with Kundan work, the recommendation is to dry clean them. For storing them, it is suggested that the Kundan work be covered with Velvet and stored in a dry place.
Interesting Facts and Comparisons

    Outfits with Kundan work are showcased regularly in Hindi movies by leading ladies.
    In Jodha Akbar, Aishwarya Rai was seen flaunting Kundan jewellery, dressed as a Rajputana princess.

Holi is considered as one of the most revered and celebrated festivals of India and it is celebrated in almost every part of the country. It is also sometimes called as the “festival of love” as on this day people get to unite together forgetting all resentments and all types of bad feeling towards each other. The great Indian festival lasts for a day and a night, which starts in the evening of Purnima or the Full Moon Day in the month of Falgun. It is celebrated with the name Holika Dahan or Choti Holi on first evening of the festival and the following day is called Holi. In different parts of the country it is known with different names.
The vibrancy of colors is something that brings in a lot of positivity in our lives and Holi being the festival of colours is actually a day worth rejoicing. Holi is a famous Hindu festival that is celebrated in every part of India with utmost joy and enthusiasm. The ritual starts by lighting up the bonfire one day before the day of Holi and this process symbolizes the triumph of good over the bad. On the day of Holi people play with colours with their friends and families and in evening they show love and respect to their close ones with Abeer.

A beautiful amalgam of metals such as copper and zinc, Bidri contains the pure qualities of both the metals. The black color of the Bidri metal is obtained from zinc while copper contributes to the temporary color of the metal. Several intricate designs have been experimented with this type of metal, while maintaining the visual and aesthetic appeal intact. Bidri art is indeed a treat for art collectors and connoisseur’s all across the world.
Origin & History
A legacy that started two thousand years ago, today Bidri art is counted among the most popular forms of metal work that dwells in various forms. Introduced by numerous rulers from  different parts of the country, this art holds a significant position in the ancient pottery, handicrafts and, cutlery. This art was originated in the beautiful lands of Karnataka. It was introduced in India by the Bahami sultans who reigned over the Bidar lands during the 13th to 15th centuries. There has been no change in the manufacturing process of Bidri art since its inception.

The Persians, Iranians and Syrians are believed to be the have introduced this art to the world. This art has been handed down to various succeeding generations among the local Muslim and Lingayat sects since its inception. Bidri ware is considered to be an important source of income for the people of India as it is the most exported items in the form of  handicraft, and this is the very reason why it symbolizes the wealth and heritage of India.

Style
Each Bidri jewelry box is made attempting a unique design. This makes the whole appearance of these boxes absolutely stylish yet classic. The various designs engraved on this box are traced by individual craftsmen and truly define the hours and hard work they put into the design. This makes these boxes highly alluring and eye-catching. They are simple boxes made of the blackish alloy. The designs in spite of their uniqueness and individuality are uncomplicated in nature which make them beautiful and enchanting.
Innovations

The innovation in this art lies in the way the metal was formed. Initially, when Persians introduced this art to India, it was made by inlaying a part of gold/silver on a base made of steel or copper. But, with time things changed and therefore rendering Bidri art some freedom from gold and silver.

The idea was to make the metal inexpensive yet retaining its beauty. This was done by mixing copper and zinc to form an alloy wherein zinc was used for coating. The newer improvised version of the metal was engraved using silver or brass. The trinket boxes designed using this metal appear to be very simple and are available in various sizes.
Influence over the Years

The journey embarked by Bidri ware has been interesting. This art was introduced to Indian lands by Persia; therefore traces of Persian influence can be seen in this art. The simplistic designs of these  jewellery boxes carry bits of Persia and Syria in their overall designs and appearance. In India, the Nizam carried it forward to various other regions including Aurangabad. Taking a closer look at the journey of Bidri art, it can be said that this art form has been influenced by many races and cultures that dwelled in India at that time.

According to Hindu scriptures Holika Dahan, which is also known as Holika Deepak or Chhoti Holi, should be done during Pradosh Kaal (which starts after sunset) while
Purnimasi Tithi is prevailing. Bhadra prevails during first half of Purnimasi Tithi and all good work should be avoided when Bhadra prevails.
Holika Dahan Muhurta is decided based on following rules.
The first preference to get Holika Dahan Muhurta is during Pradosh while Purnimasi Tithi is prevailing and Bhadra is over. If Bhadra prevails during Pradosh but it
ends before midnight then Holika Dahan should be done after Bhadra is over. If Bhadra is getting over after midnight then only Holika Dahan should be done in Bhadra
and preferably during Bhadra Punchha. However one should avoid Bhadra Mukha and in no condition Holika Dahan should be done in Bhadra Mukha. Doing so brings bad luck
for the whole year not only for individuals but for whole city and country. Many times Bhadra Punchha is not available between Pradosh and midnight. In such situations
one should do Holika Dahan during Pradosh. In rare occasions when neither Pradosh nor Bhadra Punchha is available then one should do Holika Dahan after Pradosh.
Choosing right Muhurta for Holika Dahan is more important than choosing right Muhurta for any other festivals. For other festivals doing puja at wrong time will not
bring puja benefits but doing Holika Dahan at wrong time would bring suffering and misfortune.
DrikPanchang.com takes care all above scenarios and exceptions. We suggest you the best Muhurta for Holika Dahan. In no situation we suggest Bhadra Mukha. We also list
Bhadra Mukha and Bhadra Punchha duration for all cities so that no confusion remains in deciding best Muhurta for Holika Dahan. If Bhadra Punchha is before Pradosh or
after midnight we can’t take that for Holika Dahan as Holika Dahan should be done between Pradosh and midnight. By midnight we mean Hindu midnight which is not same as

The Holi/Dhulandi day when people play with colors is always next day of Holika Dahan or Holi bonfire. The whole team of DrikPanchang.com wishes you happy and colorful